May 23rd, 2016

Refreshed and Refueled. In the past 24 hours I’ve eaten 15 slices of pizza, a side salad, two beef burritos, rice and beans, three eggs, two slices of toast, hashbrowns, two country fried steaks, 8 glasses of sweet tea, and 11 PBRs.

One month on the trail will close at 354 miles. Headed out to Damascus, VA, 115 miles away. Trying to get there before June!

This is home for the night. I’m with a group of six and we just can’t pass this up:

I’ve got good neighbors to chill with!

Best evening on the trail. A great way to close out my first month out here.

Cheers!

I’m writing to you from Uncle Johnny’s Nolichucky Hostel in Erwin, TN.  The trip in from Hot Springs was rough, with rain every day.  Many fellow hikers compared it to the Smokies, and I’d agree it was a tougher section than I had expected it to be.  I fell in with a nice group of hikers for the first couple of days, and then the group gradually fragmented.  The rain and mud made a town stop more and more desirable, and we spread out fast.

I ended up stopping into a bar before departing Hot Springs, which was a mistake.  I had a few beers and a sizable meal consisting of a turkey club wrap and a massive salad.  Another thru-hiker bought me a couple of more beers.  Then a man with a failed run for the Tennessee State House came in, and we got talking about the nature of corruption and power.  I corrected him on something (I can’t remember what) and he bought me a beer as well.

“You know your history young man!”  He shouted across the bar as I left.

Drunk and hiker-hunger satiated for the time being, I realized I needed to find a place to stay.  I asked around, and decided to stumble my way back into the woods.  I found the white blazes soon enough, and made the substantial climb out of Hot Springs at 9:30pm by headlamp.  Firebird and Ladybug were also late getting out of town, and I hiked with them for a bit.  Firebird was adamant about night hiking without any light, and I tried it for a while.

Eventually I found a nice clearing and bid the others goodnight.  I slept about ten feet off trail, with a very nicely hung bear bag nearby.

The rain started the next day, and soon the trail was a muddy mess.  I stopped keeping close track of my mileage.  Many of my fellow hikers believe AWOL is off in this section, and I’d agree.  With the amount of obviously recent trail redirects in the last thirty miles, that’s not a stretch.  It could be that we’re just tired, cranky, smelly thru-hikers too.

I stopped into a brand new hostel called Hiker’s Paradise a couple nights ago.  The rain drove hikers off trail in droves, and we ended up with some twenty people there.  A pizza and Star Wars party ensued.  It was grand.

I’m seriously considering opening a hostel after my hike, and Hiker’s Paradise was one of my favorite so far.  Built off the side of what is essentially a double-wide trailer, it was a converted sun room.  The floor was gravel (very smart for people with muddy boots) with bunks along the walls.  Three mini pizza ovens, a microwave, and a picnic table adorned one side.  On the other was a small TV, internet area with a charging station, and a washer/dryer combo.

They had a full, cheap resupply, with a kitchen and a shower.  They had real soap and real shampoo in the shower, which is rare, let me tell you.  That was the cleanest I’ve been on trail.

I set out the next morning at 9am, in a failed effort to keep pace with Firebird.  I made it to one of the shelters the next day and found a note she wrote in one of the registers.  She said she was going HMOH (hike my own hike) till her friends caught up, and closed with “come and get me.” A small drawing of a checkered flag followed.  The rest of the group was doing 12-15’s and I too felt the need to up my mileage.  I’ve had a hell of a time getting the kind of rhythm back, that I had hiking with Flo.

Yesterday, for the first time ever, I listened to my .mp3 player while hiking.  What a game changer!  Prodigy got me up the hills, Radiohead saw me across the flats, and Chopin and Yoko Kanno got me across the balds.  There were absolutely gorgeous balds yesterday, framed in by thick fog.  I watched Jane Eyre before I left for my hike, and the scenery may as well have been from the same time and place.

Listening to the “Into the Wild” soundtrack while thru-hiking the AT is a crazy and epic feeling.  Music took my mind off of being wet and cold.  It gave me a rhythm with which to dance (slip, slide, and nearly fall) across the muddy trail.

 

I slept about three miles out of Erwin last night, and the rain caught me again.  Packing up this morning was cold, everything was filthy.  I can deal with wet and cold, but muddy boots, socks, gaiters, legs, shorts, pack, etc gets old really fast.  As wet as my tent has been inside and out, my down bag has stayed remarkably dry though.  I am immensely thankful for that.  The difference between discomfort and danger in those conditions is a wet sleeping bag.  The importance of having something dry to crawl into at night cannot be understated.

I strolled into Uncle Johnny’s at 10am this morning and took a nice hot shower.  There was no soap, just multiple bottles of hair conditioner.  That’s about par for the course out here.  I claimed a bunk, shuttled into town, and devoured about fifteen slices of pizza at an AYCE (all you can eat) place.  I bought  very cheap resupply at Priceless Foods.

I’m just waiting for the evening shuttle for dinner, and to visit a Walmart.  How I’ve missed Walmart!  I’m going to head off, do some laundry, and recharge both myself and my phone.

This is not an easy challenge, but a beautiful one.  I have a post about that coming later.  A phrase I heard earlier this year is that “happiness is not always comfortable.”  That sums up my hike so far.  Supposedly I’ve lost 13lbs so far.

Stay warm and dry my friends.

 

 

 

 

A big thanks to my friend Amy for this!

I had a blissful one hour soak in the hot tub.

I am headed out of Hot Springs now with Lt., Rev, Firebird, Ladybug, and Turtle Goat.  If only we used trail names in real life, people would be much easier to remember!

 

Hey Guys,

I’m writing to you from the library in Hot Springs, on one of their many public computers.  I made it into town this morning, with a short 3.2 mile hike from the nearest shelter to town.  I ended up pulling two 15(ish) mile days.  I did a partial laundry stop, resupplied on food and fuel, and am about to head over to get a soak.

I’ve been hiking with a pretty laid back group of guys for the past two days.  We’re looking at 17-18’s to Erwin, which sounds really good to me.  Flo, Pretzel, and Hatchet left Hot Springs today, with an 18, 30, and a 19 planned, if I heard correctly through the grapevine.

It’s rainy, and as tempting as it is to go into Laughing Heart Hostel for the night I have decided to press on.  About half the group I am with now are staying, while the rest of us are headed 1-5 miles out of town for the night.  The highlight of this town stop was Bluff Mountain outfitters.  They are by far the most comprehensive outfitter I’ve seen on the trail, with a full food resupply as well.  I bought a cheap light watch there (not having a watch has been driving me nuts) as well as some Valerian root supplements and fish oil for my knees.  They had a great tea selection too, so I banked on that as well.

I also got to meet Blueman’s wife today, which was pretty cool.  His whole family came in to spend a few days with him in Hot Springs.

With clean socks, and a clean wash cloth, I am ready to do battle with the woods today.  I am rolling out of here fully loaded for five days at 30lbs.

Here are some pics:

Mountain Laurel Blooming

FAA NDB marker with TRAIL MAGIC!!!!  Homemade Icecream, Apple Fritters, Beer, and lots of other goodies.  Homemade Fudge, Etc.

Headed towards Max Patch

Max Patch.  The most peaceful place I’ve found on the AT so far.

 

Power Nap!

 

Looks like a good place for hiker food!

My breakfast

 

I left no survivors!

 

I should be out 4-5 days to Erwin.  Will update as able.  Take the best of care!

May 15th, 2016-

I just left Standing Bear Farm. I am going to try to make it to Hot Springs in two days. The Post Office lost one of my mail drops which is a blessing since I still have food left from the Smokies and food is heavy. I told Maria at Standing Bear to throw it in the hiker box if it arrives so other hikers can make use of it.

I’m thinking 18 miles today and maybe 10-13 tomorrow to get to Hot Springs. I have a one hour soak waiting for me at the resort there; a gift from my friend Amy.

Cheers!

Tent City

May 14, 2016-

Heading out from Trail Days. A girl named Firebird made me this fine tiara while she was cutting a baking pan down into a stove wind screen. That’s Hatchet in the foreground. I met back up with Flo, and Pretzel as well and got the last spot on the shuttle from Standing Bear. It was a nice way to cap off a very mentally draining week in the Smokies.

Rolling back in from Trail Days.

From left to right, Hatchet, Flo and Pretzel

This is how you know you’re in a trail town!

I was told today that I am on one of the FB pages for returning Blueman’s lost phone to him. A lady at the trail recognized my trail name instantly. Kind of cool.

Blueman’s journal where he mentions Dirty Girl and his lost phone

this is the conclusion of the lost phone story

Headed out to Hot Springs tomorrow.

Cheers!

 

May 10th- Quite the view this morning.  Hiked 19 miles last night, trying to catch up to a girl I spent a couple days with in Fontana.  Lesson learned, hike your own hike.

May 11th- Made it to the 210 mile mark.

May 12th- Tonight should be my last in the Smokies. Stopping at Standing Bear Hostel tomorrow if they have room.

 

 

One problem I seem to have with zero days is insomnia.  I was up till 3am on the last one.  Currently, I am camped out at the only public computer in this hotel, on my third cup of hot tea (self-serve mind you) but it’s bugging the hell out of the lady at the front desk.  I’ve yielded my spot to anyone who needs the machine, but it’s safe to say I’m the only hiker still up in this place.

Internet access is beautiful!  Just being able to purchase EXACTLY what I need, and having it shipped ahead, versus being at the mercy of local shops is huge.  I missed a mail drop at the NOC, because for some reason I thought I sent it farther north.  That’s okay.  I’m going to try to get in touch with them tomorrow and have it bounced to Standing Bear Farm.

Fontana Village is a strange and beautiful place, consisting of the lodge, a couple of restaurants, and a general store with a laundromat.  I had to resupply out of the general store, and while I’m glad I can get what I need here, the prices were so high I feel a complimentary bottle of lube would best complete that shopping experience…

My diet for the next seven days will consist of Snickers, Payday bars, Fig Newtons, Nutter Butters, Knorr Sides, a couple of freeze-dried backpacking meals, and danishes with a whopping 450 calories each.  Sour cream and onion chips, pretzels, and oatmeal packets round out my extremely healthy, and balanced meal plan.

I’m mailing a bunch of stuff home tomorrow.  In hiker boxes (a place to leave items you don’t want that other people might be able to use) I’ve ditched a few things.  The case for my glasses was the first thing to go.  At nearly six ounces it had to go.  I only wear contacts in town, when my hands are clean, so they are on my face all the time anyway.  At night, they go into a pocket in my tent.  I also ditched my Inova flashlight, and a small pair of nail trimmers (my Leatherman Squirt does the job fine).

Tomorrow I’m mailing home the 10oz Nikon camera I’ve used twice, which cannot sync with my phone anyway.  Uploading pictures off of it is too much of a chore.  In addition I’m sending home my compass (GASP!) because it’s the AT.  You can go one of two directions, and you figure out pretty quickly which one is North(ish).  I’m ditching my mirror, my Sawyer filter (the bags suck, Aquamira all the way man!) and the back flush syringe for it.  I picked up a nice Sea to Summit cup ditched on the trail, so I’m sending that home too.  One pair of liner socks, my StickPic, and an emergency fire kit are going as well.  Total weight, somewhere around one to one and a half pounds.  That’s an extra day’s worth of food.  I can’t eat my camera.

I’ve purchased some things as well.  I bought a micro flashlight that weighs less than an ounce to replace the heavy Inova.  I bought a 1-liter Platypus bottle, Aquamira drops, and a Sea to Summit 20 liter daypack for town stops/hauling water to camp.  That day pack is a total luxury item, but at 2.4oz it folds down to a third the size of my fist.  It’s a winner.  I also caved and bought a pack cover…  Yeah.

I’m toying with the idea of having a bokken shipped to me so I can practice Eishin Ryu on the trail.  Spending time with my teacher after Maine is on my mind a lot.  I’d really love to have access to my Iaito, but it’s really not practical and would probably freak people out anyway.  Bokken are light and easy to carry.  I compare it to the many musical instruments people take on the trail.

I met a guy named Greg (Flannel Heart) who teaches Kung Fu.  He does his drills religiously before bed every night.  I’d really like to do some suburi every morning, just to start the day a little more focused.

You meet really cool people out here.  Some hike faster, some hike slower.  You have to enjoy your time with them while you have it, because we’re all going our own pace.  Going your own pace, and being okay with it is a huge challenge out here.  We’re two weeks in and already people are obsessing over trying 20’s.  Many have done multiple twenty-mile days, but really, to what end?  It’s so difficult to leave the rat-race mindset and ego behind.  Neither seem to have any place out here.

That’s it for this ramble.  Maybe one more cup of tea before bed.