Parched

June 10 Mile 579.

I glided downhill like a torrent, bounding over rock and root. I abandoned my pack on trail with some level of nonchalance, because I had a more serious issue to contend with. The air was still, the sun persistent, but I had to keep going. I thought up a few contingency plans, but if this didn’t work out, it was going to be a major blow. Desperately I kept listening, and finally I heard it. Water.

I emptied my last bottle seven miles south, and to my peril, ignored a water source there. I thought I had a mile before the next stream. I was wrong, and the sun made me pay for it. The air temp pushed close to ninety. Being without water, and knowing you have to hike for it is rough. Worse is when you arrive at a water source after seven miles, and the sign reads:

“Spring .5E, Wet Weather Only.”

It’s been very dry, which till now was a blessing. Still, I got what I needed and made the half mile trek back uphill to the AT. I made a note that it was flowing at the current date and time, and put it in a Ziploc. As I was taping the bag to the sign, Firebird walked up.

“How’s it going?” I asked.

In the calmest whisper of a voice she responded:

“I’m so fucking full of rage I might actually start seeing red.” Then she smiled sweetly. Firebird’s a bit scary when she’s angry

“So… Do you need any water?” I sheepishly asked.

As it turned out, she had just rolled her ankle for the fifth time that day. The rocks in this section are horrendous and unstable. Between her knee acting up, an accidental double mail drop, and a few gear failures, she was having one hell of a week. Mind you, she’s a complete badass, so I heard her out and carried on.

I started hiking, and a few minutes later I heard an angry, booming, howl/growl/scream/shout. I sat down on a nearby log. I closed my eyes, rested my chin on my trekking poles, and waited.

Soon she caught up, and asked if I heard her. We’ve all had those days. If you don’t make a noise like that from time to time, you’re not on a thru-hike. Ankle roll number six.

Our best guess was that we were two miles out, and we decided to hike this last bit together. I haven’t had much one on one conversation or hiking time with Firebird, and I’ve always been a bit intimidated by her to be honest. We both tend to hike solo, but the conversation managed to flow.

We hit the side trail to the shelter and I saw Turtle Goat and Lt. making dinner. It had been a couple days since I had seen them. It was a great end to my tough 22 mile day.  I sprinted to the shelter and gave them burly man-hugs (it’s a trail family thing).

Lt. fell on the rocks three times, and had a close call with a Timber rattler. Even Turtle Goat, the strongest of us, was wiped. It was late, almost nine, and I found myself frantically trying to do all my camp chores at once. Firebird saw this, pointed to the bowl of mac and cheese I kept abandoning, and told me flat out:

“This is the most important thing, everything else can wait.”

She was right. I sat my ass down and started eating. One more day accomplished on the AT. One more evening eating dinner with my tribe. Present. Thankful. Everything else can wait.

Appalachian Dreamer Hostel

I wanted to share some photos from the last hostel I stayed at.  LumberMack is the owner of this wonderful establishment.  He does not allow walk-ins (everyone is shuttled in from the picnic area at mile 556) so he can screen hikers before they arrive.

Mack will hand you a four page waiver that must be filled out prior to your stay.  The hostel is his home, and he has all bases covered.  He’s also a man of faith, and wants to be sure his Christian values will be accepted by his guests.  This is the first time I’ve to agree “not to engage in sexual activity” during a hostel stay.  He also has a rule against profanity.  If I can make it past that rule, you can too.  Hop-A-Long told me if there was a swear jar, I’d probably have to end my hike.

Oh, and firearms are fine here, just check them at the door.

Mack is a former barber and Vietnam vet.  He’s a tough southern gentleman with a broad back and a thick Virginia accent.

“I know what hikers want.”  He told us many times.  Having been a thru-hiker himself, he does!

He and his wife Kelly have a beautiful farm just shy of 33 acres.  Their hospitality and attentiveness are unmatched.  They ask for a $20 donation.  I paid $30, as they provided both breakfast and lunch.

I loved the trekking poles on the gun rack.  There’s Mack in the reflection.

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Driveway Stargazing

June 9th Mile 556

I’m sitting on a gravel driveway outside of a hostel, under an expanse of stars. My less delinquent cohorts are missing out on this view. I’m beginning to embrace the fact that I am the strange kind of person who does this sort of thing. My best memories are cycling in the middle of the night. I guess I’ve always been more of the carpe noctem type.

I have no idea where I am, or the name of this hostel. These things no longer concern me like they once did. I just know that everything I need is fifteen feet away in a backpack, so really, why does it matter? This is the most calm I’ve been in daily life, as far back as I can remember.

I made an impulse decision to split with my group for the night, but I’ll be back with them sometime tomorrow. Around 5pm I came out of the trees to find Firebird and Hop-A-Long talking, and went over to join them. It was a large picnic area with grass, and an occasional car would zoom through the nearby s-curve. Firebird was having a rough day, and I just couldn’t get going. As Ladybug so aptly put it, we were all doing “mental zeros.”

Out of nowhere a gray pickup pulled up, and Hop-A-Long recognized the driver as the owner of a hostel. She was setup nearby, but decided to break down camp and head out. Firebird wanted more miles, but my gut told me to go. It could be that clean laundry sounded wonderful. It could be that Hop-A-Long is pretty cute. Regardless, into the truck bed I climbed. It’s best not to question these things.

We arrived at the nicest hostel I’ve ever stayed in. I’ll get the name in the morning. The owner is a former thru-hiker named Lumber-Mack, and his wife Kelly had dinner ready for us. Country-fried steak, potatoes, green beans, corn, salad, and homemade applesauce made the menu. We were happy campers!

I shared the table with Curious George, Random Section Hiker (that’s my name for him) and another thru-hiker. I cannot remember his name. Lumber-Mack brought dessert out later on. I went for the homemade lemon cake.

I had the best shower ever today, and made use of the loofa I’ve had dangling off my pack since Damascus. Curious George referred to me as “Clean Girl” for the rest of the night. Hop-A-Long told me earlier that it was weird hearing her real name now. How weird is it that I respond to Dirty Girl? I feel like that will be less than opportune at some point in my life.

We played spades till 9pm and called it a night. Well, they did. I’m finding more and more that I cannot sleep in bunk rooms. The woods are noisy at night, but in there you can hear a pin drop. I like to flail around a bit before I find my magic comfy spot on a foreign mattress. I like to fire up the MP3 player and fall asleep to music. In both cases I like a bit of noise cover.

So here I am, sitting in the dark on a stranger’s driveway like a weirdo. His cat joined me though, so there’s that. I really do sleep better in my tent. Maybe I’ll just rock my ThermaRest on the porch? It’s official, I’ve become Daryl from The Walking Dead. I’ll be eating possum before long…

One hell of a view though, I wish my phone could capture it. I’ll be back on trail in eight hours. I really need a 20 miler, but I know I’m overloaded after the last resupply. New strategy, go too light on food and up the milage. Hike or starve. “March or die” as the Legionares used to say. It could work.

Another rambling. Take care.

June 6th Mile 523

June 6th Mile 523

We hauled ass today. Cows, ponies, 25mph wind and rain in the latter part of the Grayson Highlands. Ladybug set a perfect pace. Firebird’s first 20+ day. My first in weeks. I’ve been in a mental slump. It feels so good to be with friends again. So nice to actually hike all day in a group, together. Laughing.

Tonight was my first sip of Kava. Combined with my stash of Valerian, we’ll sleep well tonight. Marion in the morning, out by 6am then ten miles hiking to the 11am shuttle. Ingles and a Walmart. I’m armed with a grocery list this time, and confident in this resupply.

Lightning bugs flying inside the shelter. Shortcut and I have the house to ourselves. The rest of our mates are between the trees in hammocks. Gritz and Sam are off trail, as Gritz blew his knee. Heal strong my friend, you have the best girl at your side.

Today was such a contrast from yesterday. It’s amazing the impact of sun after two rainy days.

New Phone, Yay!

Hey guys.  I purchased an Iphone 6 (with Verizon!) so I should be updating more regularly, and with better photos.

I’m currently in Marion, VA for resupply, which is about mile 532.  I’m in a library, but as always, I have entirely too many things to accomplish in the next two hours.  I’ve written a few things, and will upload them soon.  Hopefully from my new phone.

Enjoy the sun while you have it, and keep close to your friends when you don’t.  Friends are everything.  They’re also conveniently waterproof…

More later.

Picture Dump!

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A break from the woods, into this gorgeous farm, about ten miles before DamascusIMG_2462[1]IMG_2465[1]

First day hiking shirtless, certainly not my last!IMG_2469[1]IMG_2479[1]

Woodchuck’s Hostel in DamascusIMG_2482[1]

Hey Joe’s in DamascusIMG_2483[1]

Hoodlum spotting, Gritz and the gang at Bonnie’s hostel.IMG_2492[1]

Entering the Grayson HighlandsIMG_2493[1]IMG_2494[1]IMG_2495[1]

Grayson HighlandsIMG_2497[1]

Flame Azaleas IMG_2496[1]IMG_2499[1]

I was accosted by ponies in Grayson Highlands (licked to death).  Video to post when I have a chance.IMG_2501[1]IMG_2511[1]

Leaving the Grayson HighlandsIMG_2513[1]

I purchased a loofa.  It’s how Dirty Girls get clean!IMG_2518[1]

You know you’re hiker trash when you do your laundry in a visitor center bathroom.IMG_2519[1]

Firebird, Turtle Goat, Mogli, and Lt. Left to right.  Waiting on the shuttle into Marion.IMG_2520[1]

Ladybug made it!IMG_2521[1]

Resupply crunch and swap in front of Walmart.  Plenty of police to keep us dirty hikers in line!  Be bought too much food…  Again…  We did get wise enough to swap snacks with each other for variety this time!