I got to drive that Land Rover into town for barbecue.  All of the hikers at the hostel decided to have a pajama party at the restaurant, while our clothes were in the laundry.

I survived the crazy rain/flooding in Virginia.  Haven’t made the 800 mark yet, but I will tomorrow.

Here is a drawing Firebird did. We were stuck in a shelter one morning and she asked what she should draw to pass the time.  I shouted “Wombat!”  We had our pots and cups out on the picnic table to collect rain water.  This is what she came up with.  The wombat is assisting our efforts.

This makes me so happy, I had to share.

Will write when I’m in the mood.  I’m being first-rate hiker trash at the Glasgow town pavillion at the moment.

June 20th Mile 727.5

This was probably my most difficult day on trail so far. Today made for my fourth 20+ mile day in a row. If the hike from the hostel back to trail, and side trails to water are included, this was over a marathon at 26.4 miles. If I had had my pack, I would have stopped much earlier, probably nine miles earlier.

We slack-packed today, hiking a section with only a daypack, our typical packs shuttled safely 25.7 miles ahead of us. Often, hostels will offer to shuttle you north with a loaner daypack, so you can hike a section southbound. They benefit by having you stay another night, and you benefit by still getting miles in, without your heavy home-pack in tow. I use the term “home-pack,” because that’s exactly what it feels like now.

While I enjoyed running the downhills in fast featherweight frolic, there was admittedly some separation anxiety as well. Towards the end of the day, where I typically stop where I please, I had nine more grueling miles to cover instead. No options. Worse, every place with decent food would close by ten. I felt very boxed in, and while some purists frown on slacking, I can tell you that miles are miles. It hurts either way.

Nevertheless, our boots hit Daleville around nine. Firebird was kind enough to wait for me, while the others went ahead to secure lodging.  Turtle Goat, Ladybug, and Firebird are beasts of hikers.  I’m the slowest, and coming to terms with that.  I feel there is balance in it, after all, I saw Dragon’s Tooth bathed in moonlight last night.

As always when rolling into town, food was the objective, and to the food we went. The good barbecue was closed for the night, but thankfully Pizza Hut was still open. We each walked out with a large, and devoured them in the hotel. The cashier was kind enough to supply water cups for each of us, and plates, which were never used. Real thru-hikers eat their pizza from the box, often outside of Walmart or gas stations…

I found my pack safe, pink loofa intact, and thus I took a shower, enjoying the novelty of taking two in one day! I’ve never gotten so filthy during a single day on trail before, and I enjoyed being baptized back into civilization. That is how I think of all my showers now; a rite practiced to make me fit for off trail interaction.

Turtle Goat wanted his own place, and I know that feeling all too well. Firebird, Ladybug, and I are bunked for the night. All of us have errands in town tomorrow, so it should be a short day on trail. My body and feet are wrecked, but I’m glad today was so tough.

I have a bed, food in my stomach, and my home-pack stashed safely nearby. I’m with my friends, and miraculously we made it through without injury. I had some realizations coming down the third mountain today, which may give me a direction after the AT.  Too far away to think about that now.

I have managed to catch up to my friends again. I pulled a 23.7, 21, and 23.6 back to back.  I descended the Dragon’s Tooth at night via headlamp, and arrived at Four Pines hostel around 11pm last night.

I was relieved to find Ladybug, Turtle Goat, and Firebird there.  A hiker named Tracy greeted me with a Stone IPA.

Today we are doing a 25.7 slack pack into Daleville (possibly naked).  The Summer Solstace is “Hike Naked Day” on the AT.  It’s good to be freshly showered, and wonderful to be with my tribe again.

Edit: I was corrected. Tomorrow is hike naked day.

I’m sipping warm, beautiful, coffee.  At the window I have a wide view of the valley, and the storm clouds rolling in.  Pearisburg, Virginia.  I have to leave you today.

A couple of my friends, Don Juan and Lt. quit the trail.  I didn’t expect to stop here, but I needed a night to myself to process that.  I needed to rekindle the fire I had when I stepped past the plaque at Springer.

Ladybug and Turtle Goat ended up bunking with me for the night, which was nice.  We had a small party with some other hikers.  I needed my time though, and when they packed up in the morning I stayed.

I spent the day enjoying the luxury of running water and wifi.  I listened to music, drank heavily, and did some writing; activities crowded hostels sometimes frown upon.  I also hit up Goodwill for some new clothes and a new charge cable for my MP3 player.

Feeling social again, I hung out with some hiker neighbors till dark.  I was happy to see Blue (not to be confused with Blueman) back on trail. One neighbor was a girl headed southbound, and we picked her brain for knowledge of the north.

I got my best sleep on the trail that night, and packed my gear this morning.  An email came in from my best friend, and though recharged, that further energized me for the day.  It’s a hell of a day to leave town on!

One more cup before the rain.  Stay well my friends.

 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=P8TMEPDgvl4

The five of us stayed the night last night, and well, we never made it off the front porch this morning. A zero on a beautiful day, at a beautiful place.  I saw Blueman yesterday, he got sucked in for a day as well.

Over breakfast this morning, Lt. announced that he was leaving the trail.  I think we all saw this coming, and it seems to be the right decision for him.  I’ll miss Benji.  I’m trying not to think about it now, I’ll process it on the trail.

Woods Hole is a sustainable organic farm with two 1880’s Chestnut Oak cabins on the property.  Both have been restored and added on to.  I had hoped they were American Chestnut, as the guidebook was vague about it.

Chestnut Oaks took over after the Chestnut Blight changed the Appalachians forever.  The last time I saw American Chestnut in a lumber store, a single one by eight was going for $450.  It’s become one of the rarest woods in the world.

There are several thru-hikers here who are doing  seven week or more work-for-stays.  It’s that kind of place, and the owner Neville is a sweetheart.  I’ve never met a female Neville before now either.  I’m hoping Lt. might try the work for stay before he heads home for good.

I’ll admit that I offered to do the same at Bonnie’s place in Damascus.  That said, I had just returned from the brewery there.  Bonnie’s moonshine was pretty persuasive that night as well.  I love Damascus.

If you’re wondering about the picture of me below, I’ll do my best to explain.  Many hostels offer loaner clothes so you can wash all of your laundry at once.

According to the tag, those were “sexy boyfriend shorts” and avoided by all.  I have sufficient swagger to rock them, so yeah.  Thanks to Turtle Goat for documenting this fine moment in AT history.

That’s it for now.  Take the best of care.

 

 

 

 

 

 

T

June 13 Mile 623

Today was only a 14.4, and a bit of a rough one at that. I’m nursing two heel blisters, which robbed a lot of my speed. Blisters will numb out after a few hours of hiking, thankfully. My shoes came with “rock plates” – essentially hard plastic inserts that go under the insoles. I’m going to give them a try tomorrow. I’ve been very impressed with how the Altras grip on rocks, but I need a stiffer sole to keep the foot pummeling to a minimum. Virginia is anything but flat or smooth thus far.

This trail will kick the shit out of you on every level, make no mistake. Turtle Goat and I talked about that yesterday. He and I boogied out of our resupply point before the others, trying to make camp early. Like Firebird, he and I don’t get much one on one conversation in. He’s usually gone before I’m up in the morning, and can rock four miles an hour all day long.

We had a mile road walk and a full hour at Dismal Falls to chill before the others arrived. Several in our group have been really negative lately, and it was nice to discuss it openly. One thing I’ve become far more adept at during my time on trail, is avoiding negativity in general. Turtle Goat and I have never thought about quitting since we started. We both came onto trail with the exact same rules in place though. Never quit on trail, never quit during weather, and never quit on an uphill.

“Happiness is not always comfortable.” This is something I heard last year, and it’s become a personal mantra of mine. So many issues out here are as simple as being hungry and tired. We’re still three-year-olds when it really comes down to it.

I very nearly told Shortcut to go fuck himself when I first met him, because he kept asking me about my stove setup. I had just hiked eighteen miles, so I was wet, hungry, and tired. All I wanted was a bowl of mac and cheese and to be left the hell alone. After I ate, my demeanor completely changed, and we’ve been friends since. The trail is about mitigating and growing past those kinds of situations.

I’m exactly in the place I should be right now. I feel as though my every life’s interest has prepared me for, and is culminating within, this single journey. I’ve wanted to do this since I heard about AT at ten years old, I just forgot about it for a long time. How different my twenties would have been had I remembered.

This morning I woke at the top of the falls. Most of the crew had gone back to Trent’s Grocery for breakfast, but I decided to sleep in. Firebird was sitting on a rock and sketching in the morning sun. I bent down and dunked my head into the water, comb in hand. I had breakfast nearby, on my own sunny island of rock. It struck me how exactly at home I felt in that moment. What a home to have, even for a short while.